October Summary

WHERE AM I NOW?

I'm writing (and hopefully sending) this from Antigua Guatemala.on November ?7?

BORDER CROSSINGS

Oct 2: Mexican/Belize border at Santa Elena Belize, near Chetumal, Mexico.
Oct 12: Belize/Guatemalan border at Benque Viejo del Carmen, Belize and Ciudad Melchor de Mencos, Guatemala

BIKE PROBLEMS?

Sheared a stud which is part of the left front bracket for my Jesse luggage. That bolt also bolts the rear subframe to the main frame. Incidently this is the 2nd time this has happened to me, the first being in Baja on a previous trip. This happened on the potholed and washboard road from Flores, in the north Peten of Guatemala, to Poptun in the south of the Peten.
The problem was compounded, by IMHO a poor design in which the stud is welded to the bracket, precluding simply replacing it with another bolt.
Fortunately the Finca (ranch) I stayed at that nigh had a machine shop and I was able to fix it the way I should have after it broke the first time: by drilling and tapping the bracket to accept a bolt from the other side. That way when it breaks again, which it most likely will, all I have to do is back out the remnants of the broken bolt and replace it with a new bolt.
Was able to rerivet and repair my seat latch at the ranch also.
The brake pads for my Harrison caliper wore out after only 10K miles, and I had to replace them with my only spare set. I'll need to acquire one or two more sets before this trip is over.
Another rear flat tire in San Pedro La Laguna on Lake Atitlan, Guatemala.
Steering head bearing have developed a slight notch at center, but nothing which is a problem.
Bought a new set of Bridgestone tires in Guatemala City (actually on November 5)

BIKE DROPS, SPILLS, AND CRASHES

None

PROBLEMS WITH THEFT, VANDALISM, POLICE, CHECKPOINTS?

In Todos Santos, in the Guatelaman highlands north of Huehuetenango, I had my "fake" wallet pickpocketed. I say "fake" because it contained only expired credit cards and an expired drivers license. Normally I only carry one day's supply of cash, but I had gotten a bit lax and had about 3*4 days cash, 450Q or about US$90. It was in my right, rear pants pocket, which has a velcro flap. It happened somewhere among the large crowds watching a horse "race" (see below). From now on I'll carry my replacement "fake" wallet in a front pants pocket.

My "real" wallet, which has my credit cards, ATM card, and drivers license is kept in an inside, zipped pocket of my Mountainsmith Tourpack which I always carry with me when I'm off the bike.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MONTH

Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary in Belize - many different species of waterfowl.
Bermudian Landing Community Baboon Sanctuary - Howler monkeys actually, but they're called baboons in Belize.
Mountain Pine Ridge, Belize - Caves, waterfalls, cascades, and pools.
Caracol Mayan Ruins, Belize - Spectacular ruins in a lush jungle setting. Highest manmade structure in Belize. Fun G/S road to get there.
Tikal Mayan Ruins, Guatemala - Majestic pyramids surrounded by jungle. From the top of Temple 4 watched spider monkeys and toucans in the treetops below.
Road from Flores (near Tikal) south to Rio Dulce - great G/S road, though the potholes and washboard can be rough on the bolts.
Antigua, Guatemala - old colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, good restaurants, spectacular volcanos looming overhead, great place to hang out for several days, or even a week.
Lake Atitlan, Guatemala - Beautiful lake surrounded by three 9000+ foot volcanoes, with 10 or so small villages along it's shores.
Road around Lake Atitlan - I rode completely around the lake, something that every guidebook I had read implied was next to impossible to do. It nearly was, as a couple steep, rocky uphill stretches had my feet off the pegs and me grabbing as much throttle as I could to keep my forward momentum going.
Todos Santos, Guatemala - Culmenation of their weeklong festival on All Saints Day, November 1. Highlight of the day was the horse "race" in which participants rode from one end of the town to the other, stopping at each end to take a drink. The "winner" was the rider still on his horse at the end of the day.
Chichicastenango, Guatemala - big Sunday marketplace.

WHAT WAS MY ROUTE?

The following is a brief summary of my route, naming thecity/town I stayed in that night.

October

1       Chetumal. Quintana Roo, Mexico
2       Crossed the border into Belize
2-3     Corozal, Belize
4-5     Crooked Tree, Belize
6       Bermudian Landing, Belize
7-8     San Ignacio, Belize
9       Douglas de Silva, Belize (Mountain Pine Ridge Preserve Ranger Statio
10-11   Clarissa Falls, Belize (just west of San Ignacio)
12      Crossed the border to Guatemala
12      Flores, Guatemala, island in Lake Peten Itza
13-14   El Remate, on the shore of Lake Peten Itza
15-18   Poptun, Guatemala
19      Ranchito del Quetzal
20-25   Antigua, Guatemala
26      Panajachel, Lake Atitlan, Guatemala
27      Santiago Atitlan, Lake Atitlan, Guatemala
28-29   San Pedro La Laguna, Lake Atitlan, Guatemala
30      Panajachel, Lake Atitlan, Guatemala
31      Todos Santos, Guatemala

November

1       Todos Santos, Guatemala
2-3     Chichicastenango, Guatemala
4-7     San Bartolome Milpas Atlas, Guatemala (near Antigua)

WHERE AM I HEADED FROM HERE?

When I leave here, hopefully tomorrow November 8, I will head to the Honduran border near the town of Copan Ruinas, near the Mayan ruins of the same name.
From there I don't know what my route through Honduras will be; I need to study my guidebook more.
I do know I will travel from Honduras to Nicaragua to Costa Rica and then to Panama. I'll pick up El Salvador on the way back north.
I plan to travel through the remaining Central American countries faster than I have travelled through Mexico, Belize, and Guatemala. I can see things I miss when I return on my way north. I'd rather run out of time or money when I'm back in Central America, rather than down in South America. From California it's easier to come back to Central America than it is to South America.

Doug Ruth

druth@bayarea.net

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