Eight Classic Cars You Can Buy with Summer Job Cash

So you’re off school or college for the summer and racking up that sweet part-time moolah, right? The typical summer worker has that money earmarked for concerts, the occasional courtship attempt, and maybe some strong investments in high-yield bonds. All very sensible, but everyone knows that the very best use of money is buying something motorized. We read all over the internet that, “kids these days don’t want cars,” but we’re pretty sure it’s not a lack of desire, but simply a lack of cash that keeps the classic car market in a mostly retirement age bracket. It only takes a few minutes of watching televised classic car auctions for anyone to think that a classic car is far beyond financial reach.

However, we think that there are a multitude of classic car options if you think a bit outside the 1969 Camaro-shaped box and don’t mind driving your project car around in less-than-pristine condition. We’ll tackle the 1980’s in another post, since there is much to think about there with engine swaps and emissions requirements. Here are eight relatively obscure pre-1980 cars that with some summer saving, you could buy and drive to that concert, on that date, or to your stock broker’s office. Then tear ’em down and rebuild ’em over the winter with your Christmas bonus money. We’ve aimed for somewhere between $2,000 and $4,000 based on classified ads for non-basketcase vehicles with a few warts that otherwise (allegedly) run and drive, but feel free to chime into the comments to let us know what we’ve missed.


1954 – 1966 Pontiac Star Chief

We’ll start as far as back as we dare go and while the Star Chief runs toward the high end of our price range, you can find a running car for under $4,000. The full-size Poncho’s entire production run neatly straddles the automotive transition from round, no-frills post-war designs to Jet Age fins and ornamentation before spending its final years with classic early ’60s Pontiac design language. A first-year Star Chief will get you a flathead Straight-8, but the V8 options are solid for subsequent years with displacement—and horsepower—growing rapidly every year until 1960 when the ubiquitous 389 was available to scoot the big Poncho Sedan at a good clip.

Low end of price range for running car: $3,800



1955 – 1961 Chrysler Windsor and New Yorker

As with Star Chief, the Chryslers of the late 1950’s crossed the threshold of auto design into the Jet Age and with the styling growing always-more outlandish, these cars can stand out on the street or at the local cars and coffee. If you’re not picky about looks, you can find a running Windsor or New Yorker for well within a summer-job budget. Later cars have some dang-impressive wings so if that Space Race design trips your trigger, set your search sights on a ’61. The V8 offerings were bountiful in these cars and they provide a relatively easy way to find an early Hemi or Big Block Mopar.

Low end of price range for running car: $2,500 



1963 – 1966 Dodge Dart

This really could apply to any of a number of early 1960’s compact cars since the market has not yet gone completely berserk for the Ford Falcons and Dodge Darts like it has for their later muscle-car cousins. However, those first-generation Darts are fine representatives of that timeless three-box era of American design. If you’re patient a bit, you can find a V8 car in many parts of the country for under $4,000 and six-cylinder cars typically go for cheaper still.

Low end of price range for running car: $2,400 



Studebaker Lark

The Lark is a strange bird and is typically the long-forgotten also-ran in the same compact market with the Dart, Falcon, and Chevy II/Nova. In the Lark’s short run from 1959 to 1964, Studebaker gave it two makeovers with the first two generations’ styling really standing out in the segment. Interestingly, the Lark was the first of its contemporaries offered with the V8, which was a 259 cubic-inch engine while the base engine was a flathead 170 cubic-inch straight-six.  Either way, it’s a great conversation piece and there’s basically no market for these cars, meaning you can buy one in remarkably good shape for just a couple thousand dollars. Sure, getting parts might be a bit of a challenge, but this is Roadkill and nothing should be too easy, right?

Low end of price range for running car: $3,000



AMC Rambler Marlin

The Plymouth Barracuda gets all the glory for its fastback design, but the Rambler (and later AMC) Marlin was built before the ‘Cuda with its enormous fastback glass. Sure, former presidential candidate Mitt Romney is not a huge fan, which is probably a good reason to want one, right? A good number of them have had engine swaps from the original ubiquitous AMC straight-six or assorted small-block AMC V8 engines, but whatever you put under the sprawling hood, we think there’s something cool about the oddball Marlin. Like the cars mentioned above, there just isn’t a huge collector market for them so you won’t find a lot of “I KNO WHUT I HAV!!!11!” in the Marlin classified ads you come across.

Low end of price range for running car: $3,500 



Jaguar XJ

If you’re reading this, you’re probably familiar with our own Draguar and you could get your very own plush British luxury car for dirt cheap. If you’re lucky, you might find one that has already had the straight-six or even the complicated V12 replaced with the commonly swapped Small-Block Chevy V8. Whatever’s under the hood, expect typical British problems like mystifying electrical gremlins when tinkering with the plethora of Thatcher-era gizmos on the real-wood dash. Some might say that kind of stuff makes this idea silly, but don’t listen because we all know that real character-building comes from lying on your back roadside under the XJ’s sleek lines in a driving rainstorm and whacking the starter solenoid firmly with the Anger Wrench. And if you aren’t yet familiar with the Draguar, check out the Roadkill episodes here and here.

Low end of price range for running car: $2,500 almost categorically with a Chevy V8 swap



Datsun 280Z

We’re obviously big fans of the Rotsun—Roadkill’s turbocharged, Chevy V6-swapped 1971 Datsun 240Z—and Datsun’s curvy Z-cars offer a great chance for some low-dollar fun. The market has recently started to make the 240Z and 260Z harder to obtain for cheap, but the more-abundant and later 280Z can still be found in running shape for a reasonable wad of cash. Many still have the 2.8-liter straight-six—Fun fact: The Z-car model numbers all the way to the Nissan 370Z refer to the engine displacement—but the typical trend among Datsun ownership is that even the slightest bit of involved engine maintenance is cause enough to throw a Small-Block Chevy—or, of course, a 4.3-liter V6 with a honking-big turbo on it—in the big engine bay. Also, get caught up on the Rotsun’s history here, here, and here.

Low end of price range for running car: $2,500



Opel GT

Opel’s miniscule two-seater really does look like a three-quarter-scale Chevy Corvette, but there’s a lot of cool in these little beasts. While not nearly as refined, the power-to-weight ratio is awfully similar to a first-generation Miata and the mechanically operated roll-over (not truly “pop-up”) headlights are super cool. They’re certainly not roomy, but the GT is an eye-catcher everywhere you go with one. These seldom bring a pile of money, but if you’re going to buy one, give it a thorough lookover for structural rust. We’re sure our editor Elana Scherr will have more words on her own bright-orange GT for you at some point.

Low end of price range for running car: $2,900 


What low-buck classic do your summer-job earnings set on? Something on this list or something we missed? We want to hear from you.

Something to Say?

15 thoughts on “Eight Classic Cars You Can Buy with Summer Job Cash

  1. Awesome examples. I picked up my ’65 Marlin for $5000, complete, just needed some work to get it streetable. I drove it to work today! Probably only have about $1000 of parts in it, and it turns heads everywhere it goes.

    I’ve always wanted to take a small British car (Opel, MG, Triumph, etc.) and put an ECOTEC 4-banger in it from a junkyard Cobalt/HHR/Ion/Solstice/Sky/etc.

    Would go like stink, and run like a modern car. What’s not to love?

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  2. Great advice. I say, anything orphaned. Anything with four door or a six cylinder is gonna get you a bargain. In the past four years I have purchased a ’73 Dart 4 door for $500, a ’58 Rambler Six Super for $3000, a ’59 Rambler wagon for $300 (parts car with a good rear axle and glass) and the daily driver has become a ’76 Checker Marathon (asking price was $3500 but I traded for a motorcycle). All run and were driven home (the ’58 Rambler from Westminster, Ca. to Ventura, Ca.) All are six cylinder, four door cars with great potential. My most recent is a very rough, but road worthy (by Roadkill definition) ’65 Ranchero with a hopped up 289 for $1800.

    My wife says I have OCD (obsessive car disorder)

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    1. Tip for guys/gals looking for a used Marlin:
      the ’65-’66 is smaller, and uses the old AMC 287/327 that is damn near impossible to get parts for. The ’65 uses non-servo rear drums (instead of a proportioning valve) and is also near impossible to get parts for. ’65 has “RAMBLER” across the hood and trunk, ’66 doesn’t. It’s based on the Rambler Classic, most parts will fit. The 327 with a 4-barrel was the high compression/HP one, they’re hard to find. Nothing else but an AMC 287/327 will bolt up to the trans, and it’s got a torque-tube rear end, so you can’s just swap the trans, either.

      The ’67 has vertical stacked headlights, and uses the much more common AMC 343. It’s based on the AMC Ambassador. Much much easier to find parts for and work on, but it doesn’t look as good (IMO) as the ’65-’66. This would make a great resto project, as you can drop in any newer AMC V8 in it (360, 390, 401, etc) and run whatever trans/rearend you want.

      A few guys have done full AMC drivetrain swaps in ’65’s, most notably the Black/blue one that did the Hot Rod Drag Week. It’s not that complicated, except having to convert the rear end to a 4-bar link setup.

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      1. I should specify: there are no *performance* parts for the old 287/327 AMC motors. You can still get internals, bearings, pistons/rods, etc. for rebuilds, but nobody makes cams, intakes, headers, heads, etc. for them. If you want to run it stock, it’s a solid motor. If you want to make a street beast out of it, best swap in a 343/360/390 drivetrain and go with that.

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  3. “lying on your back roadside under the XJ’s sleek lines in a driving rainstorm”… add 40 deg temps, and I have literally done this in an equally British car; a Triumph TR7.
    As for another good option, early vans/cab forward trucks, like the Ford Econoline, can be had for under $4k, for a driver.

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  4. You are high if you think you can get a running good shape 57-59 new Yorker for 2500$

    Your only hope is a 60-62 4 door rust bucket for that kind of money and it wont be running.

    a 1957 New Yorker 2dr hardtop (only came with a 392 hemi) runs about 70k!

    Parts on that car are worth a ton… This author needs to do their homework.

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  5. These are all neat cars. But you forgot the cheapest fastest one of all. Very common under $3000. Parts are everywhere. Sexy body lines. Small block ready. The 1965 – 1967 Ford Mustang six cylinder manual trans cars are by far the best car for an entry level car guy/girl for the money. Super easy to work on. Even the 200ci six cylinders are peppy. Speed parts are everywhere for the six or the small block. I bought mine for $3000, had a local body shop do a budget paint job for $2000, a lot of degreasing and painting parts, some stuff from National Parts Depot, and a cherry bomb glass pack. My car gets a lot of good attention at car shows. It will roast the tires and its a lot of fun to shift the 3 speed. I have in total about $6000 into a full freshened pony car. Hell, I meet my wife because of that car. Mustangs of various year ranges can be bought and simply cleaned up by any high schooler with a summer job. I did it.

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